Question:
best boat/engine/leg combination for 17-21ft boat?
?
2011-04-24 11:26:45 UTC
im looking to get a new/used boat ive googled all i can nothing is telling me anything besides people stand there ground with what the own personally. i notice all hull styles are similar (8 seater open bow) so that's not that big of a issue besides build quality (bayliner, four winns, seyray,chaparral, glass craft..... ). some say mercruiser with the alpha is best others are saying volvo with the pinta, and the rest are saying the absolutely best you can get is a outboard yahama or honda. im looking for a sterdrive 3.0L about 19ft long bow rider, year doesn't so much matter as long as its newer looking style about 1995+. i would be using it for sports (nothing professional just fun with friends skiing wake boarding tubing) cruising and fishing. please give me your opinion on the best hull ( make/ model with year range) engine (mercury volvo ect) and best leg (alpha bravo pinta ect) all info is appreciated if you can provide a link with more info thats great but if its just a bunch a of guys arguing whos got the bigger boat dont bother, thankyou for reading if you like any more info let me know.
Five answers:
Derrick S
2011-04-24 13:31:41 UTC
As a former Boating Instructor, here's my opinion and experience. Both Mercury and Volvo-Penta are excellent power systems for boats. Both are equally reliable. The only real difference is the maintenance costs and available shop locations. You'll find plenty of Mercury/MerCruiser authorized repair centers. Volvo-Penta has fewer locations, so they tend to be a bit more costly, but not anything significant.



If you're new to the boating world, I'd advise you to purchase new. I give this advice to everybody that went through my classes. You'll have a better experience as you learn your way through this fun filled world, without the "heartaches" that many experience buying a used boat. If you have to go down the USED boat road, get something no older than 3 years. The size and power are good Entry Level boats as you gain experience, you'll want to move up as your budget allows. If you can budget for the 21' rather than the 19', it'll be a better choice for you. However, moving to that size I'll also advise you to go with a 305 V8 fuel injected engine with a single prop drive from either Merc or Volvo. The 21' is a little more roomy, and you'll enjoy having the extra space and comfort. Stay with the Bow Rider configuration. If you are planning on Wake boarding, find a boat with a wake board tower already installed. Aftermarket add-ons will work but isn't a good idea for a boat that wasn't engineered for the additional stress it places on the upper half of the hull structure. BTW, the "Leg" you call it, is called an outdrive, hence I/O (inboard/outboard)



When shopping, don't get to hung up on brand names. While some names are better recognized, it isn't as important for a boat used on a calm lake. However, look for hull deadrise of 21 degrees whenever possible. That level of hull deadrise gives the most comfortable ride and handling. The lower deadrise numbers mean a flatter hull angle. This translates to a harsher ride in choppy waters. You'll really appreciate the 21 degree hull vs. a 17 degree hull on a windy day on the lake! Hull quality is pretty similar these days, so not a big deal. But stay away from early model Bayliners, they had separation issues from the 80's into about 1990. But since then are ok.



I own three boats myself. But selling two as they are nearly my self imposed age limits. I'll be replacing them with new vessels with the same fuctions. The Sea Ray Bow Rider is my lake boat for the same purpose that you're looking to do. I use that boat only for inland lakes, but keep a trailer to move to anywhere I want. The second boat is a 26' Express Cruiser. I use this boat for short cruises up to 5 days, fishing the SF Bay Area and Ocean, and "Base" boat for the lakes. It too is on a trailer. Then I own a 60' Motor Yacht. That's for long range cruising for up to 3 months.



Personally, I recommend the Bow Rider boats with an I/O over the boats with an outboard motor. These can be a pain when water skiing/wake boarding/tubing. They're ok for fishing, but not my preference. The big down side to an outboard motor is the ease of theft. Yes, people steal these expensive motors. Even at 500-600 pounds you'd be surprised at how often they get stolen. I've even hear of these being taken off the boat in the owners driveway at night!



I recommend you take a "Boater's Safety Course" before the purchase of the boat. This way you'll know the rules of the road on the water, before you hit the water and learn the hard way. In most cases, it also gets you a "Discount" on your insurance premium.



If you'd like some other info or have other questions feel free to email me back. I'll be happy to help you out. I have over 40 years of boating experience and have cruised to Alaska to Mexico and west to Hawaii.





Edit: Greg, you've disabled your email. That's why you can't email me or anybody. I would recommend you look at Regal Sport Boats or Sea Ray.
?
2016-12-24 08:35:35 UTC
1
?
2011-04-24 14:23:59 UTC
merc and volvo both built their offerings around GM blocks. as far as the motor goes, paint color is one of the biggest difference.



drives (of the alpha class), both have advantages and disadvantages.

merc's impeller is INSIDE the drive, while volvo's is very easily accessed on the front of the crankshaft for very easy "better safe then sorry" routine replacement by anybody.

volvo's prop impacting something drive saver is INSIDE the drive, while merc's is a cheap hub in the prop itself that anybody can replace.

volvo's drive has a larger surface area, for more "rudder" surface. but its heavier too.



but here is the real comparision point, the WARRANTY.

i've worked at several marine dealership/service centers in my years. i thought they were pretty dam equal for years.

and then one day, we had a volvo powered boat come in with 19.3 hours for its 1st 20 hour service barely a month after it was purchased. carb was DRIPPING fuel onto the intake, majorly unsafe as well as a waste of money.

apperently, to the suprise of EVERYONE at that shop, volvo doesnt cover the carb in its warranty.





merc, wether its mercruisery with sterndrives and inboards, or mercury outboards, has an EXCELLENT warranty and will go above and beyond it to keep customers satisfied.



that volvo owner was IRATE, he came in and insisted on being shown the leak and spent an hour with the boss on speaker phone with volvo..... a merc owner will NEVER have that experience.



outboards, i'd still go with merc. none of the others are truly better at outboards, and that warranty and customer service counts for a LOT.





outboard vs sterndrive is pretty much a question of how it will be used. if its fishing and more fishing, with a little more fishing to spice things up, outboard is by far the best choice.

if you plan on just a LITTLE watersports, outboard can be workable.



but sterndrive is the best multi purpose design there is. good ski boat, good fishing boat, and good just cruising boat.





what i would go with would be a 18-19 footer with the 4.3 v6 fuel injected and an alpha drive.

the 4.3 uses less gas then the v8s, but will still move the lighter boat at the same speeds. and the 4.3 has the nice smooth idle the 3.0 4 cylinder lacks.

fuel injection (NOT an option with the 3.0) will give you a bit more power while burning the same amount of gas. and if you travel to different altitudes it will adjust for the different air densities and the effects on air/fuel mixture AUTOMATICALLY.



if you are going for a larger boat, your limited with the 5.0 and 5.7 v8s, both good motors, both with fuel injection options. but they will both burn more gas with very little overall performance difference.





bravo or the larger volvo drive probably arent options for what you seem to be interested in.

bravo is by far better then volvo in this case, there is more then one different bravo model, which allows for better matching with the hull design for optimum performance.









contrary to what some poeple say, bayliner is an excellent ENTRY LEVEL CHEAP boat. not the best out there, but dam good for the money. i know of worse brands with higher price tags.





byuing used, its all about shopping smart and protecting yourself.

lots of boat owners out there who didnt take proper care of their boat and now have a real headache they want to be rid of, they are looking for SUCKERS. dont you be one.



1. mechanical inspection performed by a qualified marine mechanic. its a fairly quick and cheap once over inspection and testing to determine overall condition. most dealerships do these on trade-ins before making an offer.....

if it passes, you can move on to the next stage of purchase.

if it fails, your out $100 or so when you dont buy the boat, but you arent spending thousands more before enjoying your boat.



2. water test it.

when you go car shopping, wether new or used, you TEST DRIVE. you take it for a spin around the block, hop on the freeway a minute and floor it, go through a couple good corners and really TEST it out and see if you like it.

dont buy a used boat any different then you buy a used car.



3. maintence records. you want to know what has been done and when, and more importantly, what you'll need to do and when.

if in doubt, go ahead and get it serviced. especially the impeller (3 years or 100 hours, or every spring on volvo's where its so easy to do). impellers are the HEART of your cooling system, when they fail due to lack of maintence they can take the engine with them and generate a very large repair bill. $50 is an expensive impeller, not worth the risk.

BTW, even the merc alpha impeller is pretty easy for a do it yourselfer to change, it just isnt quite as easy as volvos.
?
2016-11-13 00:47:31 UTC
21 Ft Boat
Elisha
2016-04-02 10:25:27 UTC
518 Boat Plans - http://BoatPlans.NaturallyGo.com/?xDu


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