Help finding spark on 1961 johnson 40 hp outboard?

Question

Hello all,

Just got my first boat......

Its a 196? Newman, with a 1961 Johnson 40 hp motor (RDSL-23). The boat is in pristine shape, however the engine is found lacking. I did a compression check and received 60psi on #1 and 63psi on #2. I checked the spark and I wasn't getting anything. I then followed the service manual suggested troubleshooting approach.
1. Spark plugs- checked out fine- [COLOR="Red"]still no spark[/COLOR]
2. unhooked both harness and all wires from cutout switch [COLOR="Red"]still no spark[/COLOR]
3. checked and replaced; points, coils, wires, and condensers.
4. flywheel has magnetism
5. ????? this is where I need your help??????



Does anyone have further steps I can take. I should have spark I am baffled.....Please help

Thanks in advance
Josh

Answer 1

Wow, it's a big learning curve to buy a classic boat and engine as a first time owner, actually it's almost vintage isn't it. That's the same as buying a '61car as your first ever vehicle.



First fit only new parts - unless you can guarantee their condition. Start with new spark plugs - even if the ones you have look o.k. Check the cut-out switch with a multimeter. Assuming all parts fitted were new, check the coil measurements as per the manual (good move having that) with your multimeter. When fitting the parts did you make sure there was good earthing connections? And of course check that the points are opening at the right moment and correct amount - check they are not held slightly open and that the insulators were correctly fitted. Never allow WD40 to spray on the points, although it is fine as a general water protectant and light lube elsewhere it is best to use specific electrical system waterproofing and dispersant sprays.



There are several possibilities, the process will be one of elimination and possibly even going right back and re-fitting all the parts very carefully from scratch, measuring and confirming each stage and ensuring wiring insulation etc. is sound. What you are actually doing is joining a select group who learn about and run classic and vintage engines - there is certainly a bit of art and secret knowledge in getting these old engines to purr. While the compression is low it is within 5%, testing the compression with a few squirts of two stroke oil will show if the rings are stuck or worn, but with these old bangers don't expect to get the compression levels of engines made half a century later either. The above engine was pretty well regarded, but is not particularly economical. They blow a fair bit of unburnt fuel out the back - nothing you can do either, it is a fundamental design issue and shows fifty years of advancement in design and materials.



Good luck.

Answer 2

The going value for a fifty 5 HP Johnson of that classic is $a hundred twenty five to $2 hundred so i could locate yet another motor. The fifty 5 is maximum ordinarily a protracted shaft engine. The transom height of your boat is maximum probable 15 inches. meaning the engine won't in good condition! in case you have $six hundred you are able to likely get a larger boat and motor. there are various used boat and vehicles (with trailers) that are plenty extra modern so which you are able to purchase. Used boat fees are very inexpensive now. do no longer placed funds interior the 40 HP. yet you are able to sell areas like the starter and decrease unit, etc. So, it nonetheless has some value. If this answer became powerful, i'm encouraging askers to decide on a terrific answer. there has been some peculiar balloting recently, like 5 votes for no terrific answer. that's unusual to get 5 human beings to vote for something. in case you like my answer, you are able to choose it! thank you.

Answer 3

After installing points did you set motor so points are at top dead center? Set points gap with feeler to correct opening? Loosen/tighten set screw with screwdriver.



And did you reinstall woodruff key in correctly? Something about install one way, timing off, install correctly, timing will work, but still have to reset timing ignition gap again afterwards.



Did you check all wires for abraded insulator coverings which short out causing no ignition? And did you clean corrosion off of connector ends before reinstalling?



When checking for spark, be sure to...



tiller handle models

turn handle to start/run/idle position

remove plugs from motor

check/set correct gap on spark plugs

do not put plugs back into where they live/work, but do...

insert plugs into spark plug wires

lay plugs on bare metal to complete electrical circut...plug grounded

on plug hole or

on bare metal of bolt or motor

have someone pull starter rope

while you shield spark plug from light to see spark

you may see/hear spark



on electric start models

have someone turn ignition key to spin motor

you have grounded spark plugs

same procedure as above



Once you get spark

to test motor on dry land, attach a thingy you can buy from boat shop which covers water intake, attaches to water hose. With unit attached and water on, you may attempt starting motor.

Or go the more timely route and trailer boat to lake or suitable body of water and tied down at a marina or anchored in water deep enough for prop not to hit bottom, attempt motor start.



Kinda leary about the low compression readings you got, but glad the numbers are within 10 pounds psi difference. Was always told to expect poor engine performance at 110 psi or less. Good engine performance and guaranteed starts at 115 psi or higher. Getting engine gas/oil mix into cylinders should raise compression.



If you get spark, set timming correctly and all, but poor engine performance, may be due to low compression.

Answer 4

Put a small amount of gasoline in under one of the spark plugs, then try firing again. I know it sounds a little odd but I have done it to an older motor of mine that wasn't working and the engine fired right up.